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10 02, 2016

Rome’s Essential Dishes

February 10th, 2016|2 Comments

Whether you're in Rome for 24 hours or 24 years, it's essential to know exactly what to order. There may not be anything spontaneous or whimsical about planning exactly what you're going to eat in advance, but trust me what I tell you it is a critical feature of eating well in the Italian capital. [...]

27 02, 2015

Rome’s Jewish Ghetto

February 27th, 2015|10 Comments

As far back as the 2nd century B.C.E., Jews have made their home in Rome and represent the oldest Jewish community in the world outside Israel. What we recognize today as Roman Jewish cooking is fruit of universal Jewish dietary guidelines and, perhaps most importantly, the community’s forced isolation into a gated ghetto for 300 [...]

19 11, 2014

Mordi e Vai in the Testaccio Market

November 19th, 2014|6 Comments

Sergio Esposito preparing a panino all’allesso. When the new Mercato di Testaccio opened in July 2012, vendors and shoppers did not universally rejoice. Higher rents, a less convenient location, a sterile atmosphere and a competing weekend farmers’ market nearby were among the complaints. But in the two and a half years since the structure’s inauguration, the market […]

27 09, 2014

Roman Street Food in Food & Wine

September 27th, 2014|2 Comments

Fried things at Supplizio. This summer, I had the tremendous joy/honor of collaborating with prolific restaurant and portrait photographer Daniel Krieger, whose work you might recognize from The New York Times, Esquire, Bon Appetit, GQ, Eater, and The Wall Street Journal, among other publications. Our piece for Punch, detailing a boozy Saturday night in Rome, [...]

16 06, 2014

Supplizio, Arcangelo Dandini’s Cibo di Strada

June 16th, 2014|3 Comments

In early April, chef Arcangelo Dandini and Lorenzo D’Ettorre opened Supplizio in a vaulted room in Rome’s historical center. The space feels like a cross between a living room and a Renaissance workshop and the furnishings will no doubt remind visitors of Arcangelo’s restaurant in Prati. Some of the menu items are […]

1 04, 2014

Where to Eat and Drink in New Orleans

April 1st, 2014|3 Comments

Tis the season! Sazeracs, hot sauce, and bread stuffed with fried things are pretty much all I need to survive, which is why I love New Orleans. There are lots of other reasons The Crescent City has captured my affection. Logically these are also food and […]