/Rome on a Budget
26 06, 2016

Mordi e Vai 2.0 Opens in Rome’s San Giovanni District

June 26th, 2016|2 Comments

Just under 3 years ago, Mara Cipriani and Sergio Esposito opened Mordi e Vai, a sandwich stall in the Testaccio Market. At the time, the couple was taking a huge risk. Street food (Rome-inspired and otherwise) hadn't had its moment yet (today, a so-called "strit fud" trend is in full swing) but Mara and Sergio were banking [...]

24 03, 2016

A Pizza Crawl of Rome For Lucky Peach

March 24th, 2016|2 Comments

https://www.youtube.com/embed/k3duXWm0pgQ I really, really love pizza. Deeply. So you can imagine my joy when Lucky Peach asked me to document a pizza crawl of Rome for them, highlighting my favorite pizzas and styles. I was equally excited to collaborate Gabriele Stabile, a photographer whose work I have enjoyed for years. Gabri and I spent many hours traversing the city and ate over [...]

10 01, 2016

Janta Fast Food in Rome’s Piazza Vittorio

January 10th, 2016|7 Comments

Janta Fast Food, the Indian cafeteria and takeaway joint former known as Kabir Fast Food, is delicious. They serve curries, lentil stews, and many vegetarian/vegan dishes in an extremely basic dining room just off Piazza Vittorio. Unlike a lot of the pricey Indian places in nearby Monti, this budget-oriented spot serves food on metal trays--an upgrade [...]

1 01, 2016

C’è Pasta…e Pasta For Roman Jewish Classics

January 1st, 2016|1 Comment

There’s this extraordinary slice of Rome wedged between the Stazione Trastevere, the Tiber, and McDonalds. If you can overlook the stench emitted by the latter landmarks, the place is almost perfect. In addition to its pretty pastel-hued 1920s housing blocks and views of Monte Testaccio and Gazometro, this swath of Trastevere’s […]

31 10, 2015

Halloween at Mercato di Testaccio

October 31st, 2015|3 Comments

Daniele Sartor grilling at last month’s special opening. I’m not so into Halloween. I do love sweets and normally I’m on board for any activity that may result in piles of bite sized Milky Ways. But I hate dressing up. Ask Mamma Parla: I wore my travel soccer uniform as my costume for from 1990 to 1997. I was the worst. And now that I am too old for free candy, I really don’t […]

19 09, 2015

Da Artenio in Rome’s Testaccio Market

September 19th, 2015|6 Comments

If you’re curious how, in spite of intense daily exercise, I keep my BMI right around (emphasis on “round”) 26, it’s simple: I eat pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner. My source for the most important meal of the day? That depends. Some mornings I find myself in the centro storico where countless Romans scarf down […]

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