Organ meats need not be relegated to rustic restaurants specializing in peasant cuisine or posh places capitalizing on a trend. They can be effortlessly interwoven into even the most elegant of menus, as Anthony Genovese has done at Il Pagliaccio. His capretto con datteri e fave consists of six cuts of kid, including finely chopped sweetbreads wrapped in grape leaves, grilled, and served on a bed of fresh fava beans. Goat glands never had it so good.