I am a firm believer that if you are going to eat sugar, you’d might as well go all the way. Don’t dissolve it one bit. I want to feel the crystals grind between my teeth. A dessert at Settimio on Via del Pellegrino in Rome allows me to do just that. I am speaking of Montblanc, a sacchariferous mound of whipped cream, meringue, chestnut paste, and bits of marron glacé. It is so sweet it makes my teeth hurt just to think about it. But, for me, that is not a bad thing.