This afternoon I took a stroll along the Bosphorus from Rumeli Hisarı to Kuruçeşme. It was a lovely day in Istanbul and the breeze coming across the water was fresh and clean until I hit Arnavutköy, where the whole placed reeked of low tide. When I got to the sidewalk in front of Vira Vira I discovered the source of the foul odor: hundreds of fish that had been drying in the sun all day.