I am shamelessly obsessed with Naples and, though I have been based in Rome since 2003, I have spent a great deal of time there exploring, writing guide books and filming several episodes of “Cities of the Underworld”. I am completely in love with the place and it saddens me that lots of visitors to Italy skip Naples on their way to the Amalfi Coast or Pompeii, squandering precious culinary and cultural opportunities in the process. Naples has one of the best food cultures in the country and its specialties scratch nearly every imaginable gastronomic itch. Here are some places I love:
For fritti: I Decumani (Via dei Tribunali 58-61).
For cheese: Caseari Cautero (Piazzetta Pontecorvo)
For simple Neapolitan fare: Donna Teresa (Via Kerbaker 58), Nennella, Cantina di Via Sapienza (Via Sapienza 40-41), Cibi Cotti (Via Ferdinando Galiani 30/14 – Mercatino Rionale Torretta), Umberto (Chiaia), ‘E Curti (east of Naples in Sant’Anastasia), and Viva Lo Re (Herculaneum).
For fish: Peschiera Mattiucci (Vico Belledonne A Chiaia 27).
For pastries: Aruta (Via Porta San Gennaro 34), Mignone (Piazza Cavour 146), Angelo Carbone (Largo Regina Coeli 4).
For coffee: Mexico (multiple locations)
Be sure to check out my Naples guide for Australia Gourmet Traveller’s March 2015 Italy issue.