Puglia is tied with Sicily as my favorite Italian region for food and it would be a shame to squander even a single culinary opportunity, so don’t cringe when I tell you: eat pezzetti and involtini di cavallu. They’re horse. Just do it.
Don’t miss Puglia’s non-equine treats like pasticciotti, mustaccioli, fave e cicoria, burrata, gamberi rossi di Gallipoli, pane di Altamura, focaccia, tieddhra di cozze e patate, cozze pelose, taralli, turcinieddhri, ricotta, capocollo di Martina Franca, orecchiette con cime di rapa, cavatelli con pomodoro e ricotta scante, panzerotti, canestrato, la giuncata, rustici, polenta fritta, crocche di patate, purpu alla pignata, and granita di gelso nero. Is your skin feeling taut just thinking about the food extravaganza. Good! Parla Food’s Puglia category has the extended dish. Here’s an abbreviated round-up of where to get it done:
Di Cosimo: Pizza and u’ panzerrott’ (pizza dough stuffed with mozzarella and tomato sauce and deep fried) are the specialty at this Bari landmark. Queue up for take out or wade through the crowd and find a table in the side room. Via Modugno Giovanni 31, Bari.
Lido Bianco: A beautifully sited restaurant perched on a rocky outcropping above a cove bathed in turquoise waters. At the entrance, a large display of fresh fish serves as the restaurant’s menu. Lido Bianco’s crudi (raw shellfish) are delectable but the antipasto misto di mare is on another level: insalata di mare with zucchini, smoked salmon with orange zest and pink peppercorns, mushroom and shrimp crepes…It could be a meal on its own, though try, if you can, to leave room for primo and secondo. Fish this fresh is worth the effort. Via Procaccia 3, Monopoli.
Panifico Fiore: Bread is baked in the back and served up front and, while excellent in its own right, most customers come for the focaccia. The dough is topped with tomatoes and olives (watch for the pits!) and baked in pans dosed with liberal amounts of olive oil. The result is a flatbread with a crispy bottom, a spongy interior, and sweet and salty top. Strada Palazzo di Citta’ 38, Bari.
Da Tuccino: A Temple to Neptune if there ever was one. Set on the sea just north of Polignano a Mare, this fancy fish restaurant serves some of the best pesce crudo in the Provincia di Bari. The spaghetti con le cozze are spectacular. At the end of the meal, the server comes to your table and cleanses your palate with this weird grappa spray, totally bizarre but strangely refreshing. Maybe more alcohol should come in aerosol form? Contrada Santa Caterina 69, Polignano a Mare.
Super Mago di Gelo: The inside of this gelateria specializing in granita (slushy fruit ice) looks like it was designed by Scarface’s interior decorator, but once you get past the coke den decor, pay for your granita at the register (be sure to specify if you want panna–whipped cream) then place your order with the barman. Each portion includes two flavors of seasonal, slushy bliss. In my opinion, nothing beats gelso nero (black mulberry) and mandorla (almond). Piazza Garibaldi 22, Polignano a Mare.
La Rotonda: A sort of restaurant-shack on the litoranea south of Monopoli serving ricci di mare (in season), cozze fritte (fried mussels), grilled octopus, and basic pasta dishes on a patio overlooking the sea. SS Savelletri-Torre Canne, Fasano.
L’Aratro: Most restaurants in Alberobello make their living off of the unfortunate mass tourism that has transformed the area in the past decade. L’Aratro is a welcome alternative, serving meticulously selected cheeses, cured meats, and wonderfully simply durum wheat pasta dishes. The owner is also a sommelier and prides himself on using Slow Food regonized products in his menu. Via Monte San Michele 27, Alberobello.
L’Antica Locanda: This place in Noci serves the most sensational seasonal food. Chef Pasquale Fatalino is intensely devoted to the classic and disappearing classics of his Valle d’Itria and refuses to compromise on food quality in this increasingly touristic part of Puglia. The antipasto misto features a parade of salumi, formaggi, olives, and vegetable dishes, while the soulful pastas celebrate the tomatoes and cheeses of Noci and its environs. Save room for grilled meat, Fatalino’s specialty.
Cucina Casareccia “Le Zie”: If you don’t have the privilige of being invited to eat in someone’s home in Lecce, Le Zie will do. Ring the bell for admittance and you’ll be seated in one of the two rooms. Almost every table has a view into the kitchen where simple, peasant classics like fave e cicoria and pezzetti di cavallu are prepared with love. Order the antipasto misto to get a taste of Salento’s typical flavors like zingy marinated anchovies, sweet peppers, and sweet and sour zucchine. Via C.A. Costadura 19, Lecce.
Alvino: This bar and caffe in Piazza Sant‘Oronzo is one-stop-shop for local sweet and savory snacks like pasticciotti and rustici. There are better places to find both, but Alvino offers convenient quality. Piazza Sant’Oronzo 30, Lecce.
Natale: Just around the block from Alvino, this much loved gelateria serve classic flavors, as well as more creative ones inspired by local specialites. The pasticciotto and mustazziolo are unique and I’ve heard good things about the stracciatella Thai, but have yet to try
it. Via Trinchese 7, Lecce.
Avio: A coffee shop near the Castello serving a special blend of the local Quarta coffe. Avio is an obligatory stop on any caffeine loving visitor’s itinerary. The espressini freddi are a rich summer alternative to the classic caffe’ espresso. Corner of Via Trinchese and Via XV Luglio, Lecce.
Nobile: Located in San Cataldo, a run down suburb of Lecce on the sea, this hole in the wall does the best pasticciotti in the region. They are turned out hot all day long and even in the dead of summer, these heavy pastiera cream-filled indulgences are hard to pass up. Via Marco Polo, San Cataldo.
Quanto Basta: One of Italy’s best craft cocktail bars is located in the heart of Lecce. QB mixes and shakes fantastic drinks that perfectly balance domestic and imported artisanal spirits. The team opened Cubi in Maglie in May 2017. Go to there.