I was first introduced to beyran, an Antep specialty, during the Istanbul Eats Kebab Krawl a few weeks back. We ate it (in Istanbul, obviously) at 6pm, which is about 12 hours later than Antepli indulge in this spicy lamb and rice soup.

This morning I had the real deal at Metanet, arguably southeastern Turkey’s most famous venue for this local breakfast dish. My friend Şemsa and I even got up at 6am to eat it bright and early. It was painful rising at such an ungodly hour, but it was worth it. Here’s how beyran is prepared at Metanet:

The Usta presses rendered lamb fat into the bottom of an aluminum bowl. He then puts rice and shredded lamb from his heaping pile on top of the fat.

He passes the bowl to a server who puts it over a flame, adds minced garlic, pepper paste, and a ladle full of lamb broth. He allows the soup to come to a rolling boil then removes it from the flame with tongs and sets it aside to be served.

We ate our beyran outside and enjoyed its richness and spice. The verdict: Metanet makes an exceptional bowl of beyran, though I yearned for the smokey heat of the Istanbul version (which was lacking in meat and rice). Maybe tomorrow morning we’ll bring our own pepper…