Although I live in Rome, I spend a lot of time down in Naples working on guide books (DK Eyewitness, Time Out, Rough Guide and Fodor’s). That means I eat a lot of meals down there, and just as many desserts. I am a big advocate of skipping dessert at restaurants, and instead heading to a caffe’ or pastry shop for coffee and sweets. In Naples, you are sure to find the best of both. These are some places I love:

Pasticceria Aruta Via Porta San Gennaro, 34. Life-altering pastries and cookies made on the premises. Their baba’ cakes are legendary.

Mignone Piazza Cavour, 146. Outstanding sfogliatelle (served warm) and baba’ made on site.

Pasticceria Angelo Carbone Largo Regina Coeli, 4-5. Delicious pastries and coffee in the shadow of the Church of Regina Coeli and its frescoed portico.

Pasticceria Capparelli Via Tribunali, 324-7. Their flakey cornetti (croissants) are the closet you come in Italy to the buttery Parisian variety. It seems Napolean’s occupation of Naples was good for something!