In Rome’s Largo del Teatro Valle stands a somewhat imposting storefront emblazoned with a sign for CO2 Brasserie, a thankfully defunct restaurant that closed a few years back. The Perfect Bun opened in its place, but the sign for CO2 is still there, a strange reminder of the space’s earlier incarnation. I visited The Perfect Bun for a bite in June. I knew they had burgers but I had never heard anything about them, and I wasn’t really sure what to expect.

We were seated by the kitchen and saw the Sam’s Club sized french fry bags being dumped into the frier and, well, I think that’s all I really need to say on the quality of the food. The Perfect Bun does not offer the perfect anything, not Caesar salad, burgers, fries, or even bun, for that matter. But they do have two things going for them. First, the service was exceedingly polite and kind, a huge change from the old CO2 days. Second, their legal name, Lady Taco, Srl. It is hilarious, confusing, strange and completely vulgar, but I love it. It’s worth a stop at the bar just to get the receipt so that months later you might find it again by chance, as I did, and have a good laugh.