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Foods achieve cult status when they are simple, addictive, and delicious. 99.9% of the time they are also fried (the other .1% they are Nic Roome’s madeleines. Such is the case for St John’s custard donuts. These pockets of sugar-crystal coated dough are filled with fluffy vanilla custard and once were only available at St John Bread & Wine on the weekend. Now, they can also be found at St John Bakery beneath the railway arches in Bermondsey on Saturday mornings. These pillows of gluttony cost £2 each and sell out fast, most Saturdays by 11:30. I highly recommend eating them in private or else risk all sorts of unflattering cream streams on hands, shirt and face. I dare say it is worth the embarrassment. And besides, you won’t be alone.