/Calf Hearts and Seared Tuna at Hearth

Calf Hearts and Seared Tuna at Hearth

A few weeks back I had dinner at Hearth in NYC. I had heard about this place last year from my friends Megan and Liz who adore it and have great taste in food/restaurants. I had high hopes. My dining companions and I tried nine dishes at Hearth. Of these, one of them was insanely delicious (cauliflower and sea urchin roe soup), four of them were very good (steak, lamb, maple donuts, and key lime pie), three were forgettable (seriously, I wrote them down and everything but lost the paper and now don’t remember what they were), and one was an unfortunate waste of a calf heart.

The dish I speak of was a special appetizer: calf hearts and seared tuna salad. I know! Seared tuna has no business being on the same plate as thinly shaved, subtly flavored calf hearts (only barely visible beneath greens on the right hand side of the plate). I don’t know what I was thinking when I ordered. Actually, I can tell you what was on my mind: “I’m going to eat those hearts and it is going to be magical.” The fish was way too strong for the delicate offal and overpowered its taste altogether. Drop the seared tuna and you’ve got a winning salad: hearts shaved paper thin, seasonal greens, and wedges of citrus fruits. Maybe it would not have been the most creative salad placed on a NYC table, but at least such a combination would not have savagely murdered the subtle flavor of those poor little calf hearts. The profound grief that I felt at having lost a great offal experience must be akin to the agony vegetarians feel when they think of slaughterhouses. Or worse.

2016-01-07T14:37:29+00:00 January 15th, 2010|Categories: America, New York City, Offal|5 Comments


  1. Diana Delatorre January 15, 2010 at 11:56 pm - Reply

    What was the name of that delicious Lebanese wine?!

  2. John January 16, 2010 at 2:45 pm - Reply

    Hey Katie! Beautiful blog! Haven´t really had time to read it in detail, but I´ll be back tomorrow 🙂
    Roma is a lovely city, isn´t it? 🙂

    / john

  3. MegRhi January 17, 2010 at 12:16 am - Reply

    You write about the one you hated… 🙁

    Love that soup too. And the donuts.

  4. Katie January 17, 2010 at 12:26 am - Reply

    @diana it was Hochar Père et Fils 2002. amazing

    @megrhi for some reason i find it easier than writing about the ones i love. character flaw? ill write about the donuts eventually. they were so good.

  5. Cauliflower, Sea Urchin & Apple Cider January 17, 2010 at 10:27 pm - Reply

    […] Friday I wrote about the disappointing salad I ate at Hearth in NYC. That post focused on what was bad about my meal, overlooking what was great about it (sometimes it takes the […]

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