/Eating and Drinking in Monteverde

Eating and Drinking in Monteverde


Today’s post is inspired by a reader question. Douglas wrote, “My wife and I will be in Rome at the end of May and will be staying in the Monteverde neighborhood. Would you be able to give us some suggested places to eat dinner within walking or maybe one bus ride from our place?”

Douglas’ question came at the perfect time. I really want to be writing more about non-central dining destinations. I swear with each passing year, it becomes more difficult to eat well in the center. Rome isn’t all that large and it is fairly easy to get around with public transport. Visitors to Rome can really benefit from taking a bus or tram away from the touristic zones.

Monteverde is very easy to get to. Just take the 8 tram about 12 stops from Largo Argentina. Get off at Piazza San Giovanni di Dio.

The square is the location of a fantastic market, which is open Mon-Sat from around 7:30-1:30. Located just a couple of hundred yards away at Via Federico Ozanam 30, La Gatta Mangiona is one of Rome’s best pizzerias. La Gatta is open Tues-Sun for dinner only. It serves pies made from slowly leavened dough topped with quality ingredients. The fried appetizers are excellent (check the chalkboard for seasonal selections) and there is a great choice of beer, wine, and distiller liquor.

You can find beer, wine and fine spirits at Alchimia a short walk away on Via di Val Tellina. The owner, Emiliano speaks English and is passionate about craft beer. Next door at number 114, Cristalli di Zucchero serves coffee, pastries, and savory snacks. It is a great place to sit outside and enjoy the spirit of the neighborhood.

Another spot worth checking out is
Le Tre Zucche on Via G. Mengarini 43-45. The food is fun, creative and moderately priced. For a change of gears, hit up Barilli 66 in Monteverde Vecchio. This kosher deli models itself on a NYC deli, but serves Roman Jewish dishes, as well. It is located at Via Barilli 66.

2016-01-07T03:36:34+00:00 April 22nd, 2011|Categories: Beer, Food & Wine, Pizza, Restaurants, Rome & Lazio, Wine & Spirits|10 Comments


  1. Teodoro April 22, 2011 at 4:56 pm - Reply

    I hope you will continue to posting these gems. We are heading to Rome at the beginning of Italy, and I’ve been making note of your excellent suggestions, especially those outside of the center. Thanks. (p.s. that pizza in the photograph looks soooo perfect!)

  2. @passerotto April 27, 2011 at 12:35 am - Reply

    Thank you!
    Do you like chocolate? Near Barrili 66 (at number 56) is pasticceria Dolci Desideri
    Monteverde rocks.

    I hope you’ll be updating this very interesting “out-of-the-centro-storico” list, mentioning other worthy peripheral neighborhoods too.

  3. Melissa Santos July 1, 2011 at 8:32 am - Reply

    So I have another sort-of (not really) off the beaten track question — I plan on taking two visiting relatives who are super into history on a walk along the Via Appia Antica and visiting one of the catacombs (haven’t decided which yet, probably San Callisto).

    Now when I’ve done this before I’ve packed a picnic, but there also are some highly-reviewed restaurants out there. Would you recommend L’Archeologica, Hostaria Antica Roma or Ristorante Cecilia Metella, or is a picnic in the Baths of Caracalla still a better idea?

  4. Katie July 3, 2011 at 8:14 pm - Reply

    @Teodoro that picture WAS so perfect:) will keep posting on Rome’s neighborhoods. glad the previous posts have been useful!!

    @Passerotto thanks for adding dolci desideri! that place is awesome!!! ill be working on more neighborhoods. if you want you can write a guest post or we could co-author a blog post on your hood:) i know youre busy but lemme know:)

    @Melissa you can’t picnic in the baths of caracalla. that is, you cannot officially, but the guards only really hang out near the ticket office and occasionally peek around the caldarium. if you are discreet and have a few sandwiches, that should be fine. regarding the other options, i havent been to any of them in years, but i recall all of them being fine (though l’archeologica is much more expensive than the others if i remember correctly). i often stop at the cafe/restaurant in the plant nursery a few hundred yards southeast from the tomb of cecilia metella and always enjoy it. hope that helps. let us know how you fare!

  5. Cheryl Prothro March 8, 2012 at 12:37 am - Reply

    thanks for your helpful info. having been a student in Rome years ago i love to hear of tucked away dining treasures.

  6. Charles Knabel December 19, 2013 at 2:59 am - Reply

    I will be coming to Rome in May and will be staying in. Monteverdi Vicheo. I don’t speak Italian will I have trouble ordering in the restaurants?

    • Katie December 19, 2013 at 5:34 pm - Reply

      it wouldn’t hurt to familiarize yourself with some local dishes…or download my app (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/katie-parlas-rome/id475306005?mt=8) to find out which dishes to order at various restaurants. don’t miss cesare al casaletto, which isn’t super far from monteverde vecchio. very little english is spoken but order all the fritti (Fried starters)

  7. mike January 16, 2015 at 2:08 pm - Reply

    Do you know the name of the pasteria just 2 blocks of the main road in Monteverde.

    • Katie January 16, 2015 at 2:21 pm - Reply

      Maybe Dolci Desideri or Cristalli di Zucchero? Which main road?

  8. […] but when I went to see the place, the neighborhood was charming, with lots of little shops and restaurants. Two buses stop right by the apartment or it’s an easy walk down the hill into Trastevere to […]

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