/Hold Your Horses: Cavallini 23 in Rome

Hold Your Horses: Cavallini 23 in Rome

Last night I visited Cavallini 23 (located at Via Pietro Cavallini 23) with my friends Hande and Theo of Vinoroma fame. We went to try the burger, a collective obsession of ours, and one that is incredibly difficult to satisfy in Rome. As I have previously ranted, the city offers so-called gourmet burgers that are nothing short of a crime against nature. They are made from the wrong type of beef (razza piemontese) and from cuts that are too lean (fat=flavor, people!). These foncy poncy burgers are made from knife-chopped, rather than ground meat. A seared wad of tartare on a bun. Gross. And criminal. What a waste of good meat.

But I digress…I heard about Cavallini 23 a few weeks back from a reader named Nicola. Recognizing my obsession with burgers, he wrote to me and suggested I check out Cavallini, citing homemade buns and sauces, and most importantly an American chef who had previously worked in NYC. Promising…

So Hande, Theo, and I went full of hope, and each ordered a burger. First, the pros: the meat grind was acceptable, the bread to meat ratio was ideal, and the meat had grill marks and a crust, indicating that it had been cooked on a hot and adapted surface (those nasty gourmet things are never cooked on a hot enough grill). The cons: the patty was under-seasoned and needed more fat. The nail in the coffin: the bun was a cross between a ciabatta and English muffin. At €16 a pop, the burgers were an expensive disappointment.

But all was not lost. At the end of our meal, an old woman busted out some yoga moves in the middle of the restaurant. Her nimble pelvic thrusts were equal parts age inappropriate and regular inappropriate. Priceless.

2016-01-07T03:36:34+00:00 April 8th, 2011|Categories: Meat, Rome & Lazio|6 Comments


  1. Tom April 11, 2011 at 6:07 pm - Reply

    “But all was not lost. At the end of our meal, an old woman busted out some yoga moves in the middle of the restaurant. Her nimble pelvic thrusts were equal parts age inappropriate and regular inappropriate. Priceless.”


  2. Katie April 11, 2011 at 6:11 pm - Reply

    Tom I feel like Im changed forever. If Hande and Theo weren’t there to witness it I would assume I hallucinated it.

  3. Susan Rosenfeld April 17, 2011 at 3:16 pm - Reply

    Katie .. American burgers are not supposed to be pre-seasoned – The ‘Eater’ seasons his burger according to his/her own taste. Only extras, such as onions, mushrooms, etc. are added in the kitchen if ordered.

    In addition, the usual cuts of beef used for burgers, are unknown in Italy and traditional Hamburger Buns are not sold there! If you are looking for a genuine AMERICAN BURGER , come to New York City where I live! I am not referring to McDonalds … I only eat burgers fresh made in restaurants.

  4. Katie April 17, 2011 at 4:03 pm - Reply

    for SURE the meat shouldnt be pre-seasoned. the salt breaks down the meat proteins and some kind of weird chemistry stuff happens. but the patty should be seasoned adequately on the grill.

    traditional hamburger buns are sold here. they are sold in practically every supermarket. but they are the gross mass produced kind. and i wouldnt want one of those. ewe my mouth just went dry thinking about them. but it’s not hard to bake a nice traditional seeded roll, brioche bun, or potato roll. and you can get the proper cuts of beef here. to my knowledge, you can’t get angus, which is an issue. thankfully it is widely available in London, which is Europe’s burger capital. trust me, when im home i do some serious arterial damage in NYC with my unbridled burger consumption. man i could go for a black label right now!

  5. chiara May 1, 2011 at 11:56 am - Reply

    I should not have read this article. Now I really want a burger.
    Any other places in Rome? I have tried the Perfect Bun (never again), T-bone station (small) and, dare I say, Hard Rock… nothing to write home about.

  6. […] It seems that Italy has come along way since Katie Parla’s often fruitless search for a great burger in Rome in 2011. […]

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