At Mazzo in Rome’s eastern periphery, Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli, a young couple collectively known as “The Fooders”, have introduced major improvements to their beer, wine and spirits list, as well as changes to their menu. Their neo-trattoria, which opened in Rome’s Centocelle district in 2013, has steered away from their previous small plates format since September and embraced a more structured, traditional approach to dining, offering a selection of starters, pastas, and main courses. The daily menu is printed on a chalkboard-clad wall and, depending on the sesason, diners may find sweetbreads with panettone, mezze maniche with an onion and beef sauce, fried beef neck nuggets or tripe with tomato, pecorino and mint. Think Italian soul food with a few international twists like pork belly with Chinese five spice.
Recently, Mazzo began serving cocktails, although the selection is limited exclusively to gin & tonics. The wine and beer list, once seriously lacking, is now rounded out and well suited to the menu. Their signature dessert, Mississippi Mud Pie, layers brownie, whipped cream and cacao. It is far from Roman, but purely satisfying. One feature of dining at Mazzo that hasn’t changed is the long wait between ordering and receiving food, which on two separate occasions contributed to a bit more of a beer buzz than I had bargained for.
Via delle Rose 54