/The New Testaccio Market

The New Testaccio Market

The nearly three year old Testaccio Market is new by Roman standards. When it opened in the summer of 2012, fans of the original market were skeptical of the modern space that had moved away from Piazza Testaccio in the heart of the district. The inauguration of an American budget steakhouse and terrible sushi restaurant in the same complex did nothing to alleviate anxieties. But now, due to thriving new businesses and hard working well-established ones, the New Testaccio Market is proving to be a successful marketplace. In the latest installment of my YouTube series (shot and edited by Zero the One), I visit some of my favorite stalls: Sartor (Box 70) for meat, Da Artenio (Box 90) for baked goods, Mordi e Vai (Box 15) for sandwiches, Fior di Zucca (Box 82) and Silvia & Gabriele (Box 68) for produce, Chicchi e Lettere (Box 43) for coffee beans, and Dess’Art for dessert.


At Mordi e Via (Box 15) always start with polpette di bollito (fried shredded simmered beef) followed by a panino con l’allesso (simmered beef). Here, the beef has been accompanied by beautifully bitter dandelion greens.


At Artenio’s stall (Box 90), I never miss the pizzette rosse, small, crispy pizza snacks dressed with tomato sauce. But the ciambelline al vino are very delicious, too.


The Sartor family are my go-to butchers for organic meat and eggs.

2017-02-17T15:15:50+00:00 March 20th, 2015|Categories: Gastronomic Traditions, Markets, Rome & Lazio, Travel, Videos|4 Comments


  1. […] so) caffè doppio at Linari or Zì Elena, followed by a pizzetta or 3 at Da Artenio, a stall in the Testaccio Market. While much of what Artenio sells is made elsewhere–the excellent sourdough breads come from […]

  2. […] Testaccio Market, which re-opened in 2012 in a modern building near the old slaughterhouse, has been a pioneer in […]

  3. Sparsmakad April 27, 2016 at 7:21 pm - Reply

    […] det man som turist brukar se. En promenad hit och ett besök på Testaccio Market – https://katieparla.com/the-new-testaccio-market/ är något att rekommendera om man känner att det finns tid. Då kan man också besöka Keats grav […]

  4. […] offers the example of Mordi e Vai, a stall in the Testaccio Market that was the first in Rome to serve prepared foods for takeaway. The owner is a retired butcher, […]

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