It’s been a while since a trip has changed me for the better. Delays, lost luggage, interminable waits at baggage claim and the squalid conditions at Fiumicino Airport are enough to make anyone embittered. My deep affection for efficiency and innate cynicism make me particularly susceptible. For this (and maybe a few other reasons), the … Continue reading Gruyere in Kars, Swiss Cheese in Eastern Anatolia