My Venice

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I love Vino Vero, Stappo, and La Sete for wines and snacks. Estro is amazing for a quick glass and a tramezzino–there are hundreds natural wines on the list–a snack, or a full-on meal. Al Covo is great for pasta, fritto misto and a very good grappa selection. Covino nearby is lovely, too. Try Alle Testiere where everything is very good, Bottega Ai Promessi Sposi for cicchetti like sarde in saor (marinated sardines) and baccala’ mantecato (salt cod spread), and Alla Vedova, an institution for cicchetti such as fondo di carciofo (artichoke hearts) and polpette di carne (meat croquettes). Cantina Do Spade is cute for cicchetti, too. If you’re on the move in the lagoon, visit Trattoria alla Maddalena in Mazzorbo and Gatto Nero in Burano.