My Venice

I recommend Enoiteca La Mascareta for wines–more than 1000 labels, all of which can be poured by the glass. Estro is amazing for a quick glass–there are over 500 natural wines on the list–a snack, or a full-on meal. Al Covo is great for fritto misto and a very good grappa selection. Try Alle Testiere where everything is very good, Bottega Ai Promessi Sposi for cicchetti like sarde in saor (marinated sardines) and baccala’ mantecato (salt cod spread), and Alla Vedova, an institution for cicchetti such as fondo di carciofo (artichoke hearts) and polpette di carne (meat croquettes). If you’re on the move in the lagoon, visit glassmaker Elia Toffolo in Murano en route to lunch at Gatto Nero in Burano.