After hours of meandering through the back alleys of Dorsoduro, we were hungry. Blood sugar levels were plummeting and by 3pm on a Saturday, most proper restaurants had already closed for lunch. Thankfully, in Venice there are countless osterie that serve wine, chiccheti (snacks), and small selection of hot meals all day. One such place, Ai Artisti, is a favorite with locals and tourists alike. We found it just in time. Situated on the Fondamenta della Toletta, not far from the Accademia, there are around 20 seats inside including 4 stools at the large glass storefront and another 10 seats at tables outside. We grabbed two stools at the window, ordered some wine and chicchetti and commenced people watching.
Venice’s osterie display their array of chicchetti behind glass at the bar, allowing you to point out what you want to your server. Ai Artisti’s included many seasonal grilled vegetables as well as some local cheeses and marinated fish. We chose sarde in saor (sardines marinated in vinegar, oil, onions, pine nuts and raisons), cipolline al forno (roasted onions), and peperoni marinati (marinated peppers). To supplement our snacks we also ordered one item from the hot menu-crostini con baccala’ mantecato (toast topped with flaked cod seasoned with and garlic, oil and herbs). The service was polite and efficient and the prices reasonable. Paired with two glasses of wine (there are around 15 available by the glass, mostly from the Veneto region), our meal came to €26.
Fondamenta della Toletta Dorsoduro 1169/A
Tel/fax +39 041 523 8944
Open 8am-10pm Mon-Sat