Tonight I had my first Roman pizza since returning from a month in Istanbul. My friend Nat and I went to my local pizzeria , Alle Carrette, an old standby that makes great (if small) pizza bassa in a wood burning oven. The small size of their pies is actually an advantage, since it allows you to gorge on fritti (fried appetizers) with a little less guilt. At Alle Carrette, artichokes are battered, fried, and served with a wedge of lemon, a different preparation than the more famous carciofo alla giudia, but just as satisfying.