This morning I stuck around Eğirdir long enough to take a spin at the town’s incredibly diverse Thursday bazaar. I am obsessed with these once-weekly markets that take place all over Turkey. Farmers move from town to town selling their fresh produce, yogurt, cheese, olives, eggs, fish, meat, and opiates. Yesterday I caught the one in Isparta, today Eğirdir, tomorrow, er, does Konya have a Friday bazaar? I should probably look into that…

While wandering through the market today, I saw a large yellow bucket filled with what looked like mud or clay. Whatever it was, I wanted to stick my hands in it. Luck for me, the vendor instructed me to do just that so I could taste the stuff. This grainy, slightly sweet paste is called haşhaş (pronounced hash hash), so I wasn’t completely surprised when my friend Ibrahim told me it has the calming effects of hashish. Of course he told me this after I ate a huge fingerfull of it. No wonder I slept every minute of the 3.5 hour bus ride to Konya.

I asked about this haşhaş on twitter and @vinoroma informed me it is more like opium, hence its immediate calming effects. She further mentioned that it is sometimes used in a dessert called katmer, which is a sweet pide (I think). It just goes to show, you cant dip your finger into a bucket full of opium paste without having to add yet another Turkish dessert to your list of “things to eat in the near future”.

2016-01-07T14:37:53+00:00 August 13th, 2009|Categories: Sweets & Dessert, Turkish Cuisine|7 Comments


  1. Hande August 13, 2009 at 11:20 pm - Reply

    Since you love Antep, I guess you know Katmer: (fresh) yufka, butter, sugar, kaymak, pistachios – fresh from the pide-oven for breakfast. Need I say more?

  2. Katie August 13, 2009 at 11:21 pm - Reply

    Know it? I dream about it every night and most days. Goddamn that is a brilliant combination of the most perfect things.

  3. eru August 14, 2009 at 6:52 am - Reply

    If you are in Konya, you must try “Etli Ekmek” which is similar to lahmacun. I know you like lahmacun and kofte, so you should give it a try.

  4. Katie August 14, 2009 at 8:13 am - Reply

    Will do, Eru. Do you have a favorite spot for it?

    • Katie August 14, 2009 at 7:06 pm - Reply

      OK so i went to Bolu AND Damla for Etliekmek today and I can confirm that they are both delicious. They are practically next door to each other, just south of Mevlana Cadd, a couple of blocks west of the Mevlana Museum. They were crispy and flavorful, with just the slightest hint of green pepper and tomatoe mixed in with the meat. both very very good.

  5. eru August 14, 2009 at 9:02 pm - Reply

    Sorry I think I am a little too late.
    Local guys from konya recommend this one:
    havzan etli ekmekçisi

  6. Katie August 14, 2009 at 10:23 pm - Reply

    No worries, Eru. It’s on my list for next time! Thanks!

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