Mezes (mezeler in Turkish) are starters, or small portions of food that can be combined to substitute a full meal. The other night I took a friend to Refik, my old standby meyhane (traditional restaurant serving mezes and alcohol) on Sofyalı Sokak in the Asmalımescit section of Beyoğlu. This is a good place to be introduced to the variety of mezes on offer throughout the city like dolma (stuffed grape leaves, or stuffed anything for that matter), patlıcan salatası (eggplant salad aka baba ghanoush), and marinated fish. Pair it all with rakı and you’ve off!