Equal parts 19th century elegance and urban decay, the intriguing Esquiline district is a multicultural hub located near Rome’s Termini Station and a short distance from the Forum and Colosseum. Its main square (Piazza Vittorio), eclectic market, and transport connections make it a natural destination for Rome dwellers of all sorts. During this walking tour we’ll delve into Rome’s intriguing international cuisine, old Roman favorites, as well as the Mercato Centrale food hall, which has somewhat revitalized an underused stretch around Termini. Piazza Vittorio, trimmed with porticoed buildings, is a jumping off point to discover the legendary maritozzi con al panna at Pasticceria Regoli, while the bustling halls of the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino represent a dazzling pastiche of colors, aromas, and languages—making it the best place in the center to see multicultural Rome at work. Artichokes and okra rub elbows there, making it a go-to market if you’re on the hunt for global ingredients. Overall, the Esquilino is the perfect area to get an unexpected overview of what Rome is today.