Trastevere, a district on the opposite side of the river from Rome’s centro storico, has been mythologized to within an inch of its life. It’s billed as Rome’s nightlife nerve center, the place where Romans spill in from across the city to flirt, linger, eat food that can be mediocre at best, and drink just past the point of good judgment. Visitors follow suit (though they tend to get tipsier than the average Roman), drawn by a reputation for edge and grit that, if we’re being honest, evaporated years ago. Some are here chasing a maritozzo because Stanley Tucci took a bite on camera at Bar San Calisto.
Romans, for their part, treat Trastevere like a destination rather than a neighborhood. They’ll tolerate a forgettable plate or a diluted drink because the setting still delivers. The streets twist and narrow, the medieval bones show through, and there’s just enough Renaissance grandeur to remind you why this place mattered long before the aperitivo crowd showed up.
The hype isn’t entirely misplaced. You just need to know where to spend your time and where to walk on by. These are my #ParlaPicks for eating and drinking well in Trastevere, and for steering clear of the limp carbonara and oversized, watered-down spritzes that drag the whole area down.
???? Latteria for vino, great snacks, and the nicest people
???? Trapizzino for pizza pitas and an incredible Lazio wine list
????Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà for the best craft beers. If you swing by at lunchtime, you might spot me sipping a half pint
????L’Elementare for pizza thin, rimless Roman pizza and fried things
????Supplì for classics supplì only (skip the ????)
????Forme Dispensa a Ripa for Pasquale’s highly curated selection of cheeses, cured meats, and pantry items.
????Otaleg for incredible gelato
????Not food, but the Villa Farnesina for Renaissance paintings by Raphael and others, incluidng frescoes featuring the world’s first eggplant emoji
????L’Antidoto for some of the most exciting contemporary cuisine anywhere
????Il Ciak for a proper steak, hiding in plain sight on the hood’s most touristy street
????Rumi Bottega Organica for a quick bite and organic food shopping
????Freni e Frizioni for creative cocktails
????Jerry Thomas Bar Room for craft cocktails in a cozy setting
????Les Vignerons to buy vino and craft beer
????La Punta Expendio de Agave for mezcal, tequila, and sotol
????Seu Pizza Illuminati for third wave gourmet pizza
????Hotel San Francesco lobby for coffee and vino
????La Gensola for Roman and Sicilian flavors
????Fior di Luna for gelato
????Tavernaccia da Bruno is an exceptional trattoria near Trastevere Station (technically, it’s in Porta Portese, but close enough)
Book a tour with me in Trastevere or honestly anywhere in Rome. It’s fun!
