It’s that solemn time of the year again when Roman Catholics, a few pagans, and many others across the globe commemorate their dearly departed in early November. The annual ritual of celebrating deceased loved ones stretches back to time immemorial. Ancient Roman pagans paid tribute on prescribed days, visiting tombs and even picnicking with their ancestors in the city’s suburban cemeteries, leaving bits of food and dribbles of wine for them. These rituals were later woven into local Catholic customs and, while it is no longer common for Romans to bring food to the cemetery, they do visit, with special bus services running to Prima Porta and Verano Cemeteries in early November 2 for All Soul’s Day. Bakeries in Rome mark the holiday with these special cookies called fave dei morti, or fava beans of the dead, which start to appear in October and fill baskets and trays in bakeries where they are sold by weight. Favas were a symbol of death in antiquity so the name is fitting!

Recipe reprinted from Tasting Rome: Fresh Flavors and Forgotten Recipes from an Ancient City. Purchase your signed copy here.