/A Visit to the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio

A Visit to the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio

Last week, the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio opened between Via Galvani and Via Alessandro Volta. The hideous building, which was designed by Marco Rietti, seems to be a hit. According to the Mayor of Rome’s blog, it is “one of the most beautiful markets in Rome”. While I couldn’t disagree more, I must say that the fact the building’s energy is almost completely supplied by rooftop solar panels is quite impressive. Not so exciting is the huge push to drive to the market (270 parking spaces are located beneath the market and I saw lots of shoppers parking on the streets around the market).

I took a trip on Saturday and it was as crowded as the old market ever was. Though many of the stalls remain empty, the place was thriving with commerce. At first I found myself a bit lost among the 103 stalls. Then I began to see some familiar faces like my butchers and favorite produce vendors.

Glad to know I can still get my daily does of coppiette di cavallo (spicy horse jerky) at my equine butcher.

The Sartor boys are still doing their thing.

Produce vendors abound, though I must say fruit and veg was looking way better overall at the Farmers’ markets this weekend. But that’s nothing new.

20MQ is still selling fun design pieces.

There are some new faces two. The Sicilian pastry shop makes lovely cannoli, filled upon demand.

And then there is Mordi e Vai, first reported by Gina Tringali. I stopped for tripe and bollito (boiled beef) sandwiches, which were really good, especially the bollito, which is soaked in fat.

So the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio might not be pretty. And in a city where we need fewer not more cars on the road, the setting isn’t perfect. But it seems the ridiculous paradigm just might work.

2017-02-17T15:17:52+00:00 July 9th, 2012|Categories: Food & Wine, Gastronomic Traditions, Rome & Lazio|11 Comments


  1. Nathalie (@spacedlaw) July 9, 2012 at 3:54 pm - Reply

    That Mordi and Vai sounds interesting.
    I quite like the architecture of the mercato (http://flic.kr/p/arbnDT) (similar in my mind to that of the bridge of Garbatella) but it is also true that it doesn’t blend in with the surroundings and that it lacks all the quaint charms of the old one.

  2. Parvin Damani July 9, 2012 at 10:17 pm - Reply

    I wish I had read this article before going to Testaccio! It was a total shock to see the modern structure in place of small friendly family type stalls. I lived in Rome for eight years and always visited the open markets for that warmth from vendors even if you did not buy their wares. Well, progress comes at a price but i want my old markets back!

  3. Bropaul July 19, 2012 at 3:57 pm - Reply

    The old market in Testaccio played a special role in my education in Italian food culture. There was a time when I went there almost every day and it will always be a place I remember with great fondness. I just hope the new market can do that for others too.

  4. […] product. My son and I visited it on our last morning in Rome accompanied by our cousin, Ida. It closed for good shortly thereafter, moving to a new modern structure. I hope that you enjoy my slide show of a […]

  5. […] THE TESTACCIO MARKET HAS CLOSED AND MOVED TO A NEW VENUE. Earlier this week, a curious reader asked the questions, “Where can one find tripe and head […]

  6. […] e meno noti (tra i primi, Jonathan Nossiter) e anche di foodies stranieri (vedi Gina Tringali e Katie Parla).  Il box lo riconosci subito: il banco è circondato da una piccola folla di clienti. […]

  7. […] the Testaccio Market moved to its new location last July, petitions had already been filed by its vendors seeking to shut down the nearby Roma […]

  8. […] is in Testaccio, just across the street from the new market. I had vaguely heard about it in years past—many years past, in fact. I had a notion of it as a […]

  9. […] the new Mercato di Testaccio opened in July 2012, vendors and shoppers did not universally rejoice. Higher rents, a less convenient location, a […]

  10. […] Parla talks about the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio in […]

  11. […] a residential area – you can walk everywhere, and you’ve got this beautiful market (Mercato di Testaccio) as a point of reference,” Roddy […]

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