/Caseari Cautero Wine, Cheese, and Salumi Shop in Naples

Caseari Cautero Wine, Cheese, and Salumi Shop in Naples

Naples, you guys. Have you been? I’m totally obsessed with Italy’s beautiful, decaying, lively metropolis. I won’t dwell on the city’s bad rap, which is largely undeserved, but I will say that if you visit the city with someone who truly loves it (Fiorella from Vesuvius vs Pompeii, for example, is such an awesome guide that friends of mine named their daughter after her) you will be physically incapable of disliking it and will defend Naples’ tarnished reputation to all who will listen.

If you have been to Naples, you probably popped into a pizzeria in the centro antico (Attilio in Pignasecca is my fave) and wandered the cavernous halls of the Archeological Museum (truly Italy’s coolest collection of antiquities). What you probably missed was a stellar cheese and salumi shop a short walk uphill along Via Salvator Rosa. There, at this sunken stretch of kiosks in Piazzetta Pontecorvo, Caseari Cautero sells and serves cheeses and cured meats mainly from Campania, Abruzzo, Calabria, and beyond.  Proprietor Salvatore Cautero is a fourth generation food purveyor–the family was in the stockfish business–and just last month transformed part of his retail space into a small dining room with a large communal table surrounded by wine bottles, as well as some outdoor seating overlooking the Neapolitan theatrical performance that is Via Rosa.

Salvatore Cautero is the city’s foremost ambassador of fine Italian food and wine. His gastronomia is unrivaled in Naples for quality goods sourced from small producers, especially from Campania and the surrounding regions. Look for conciato romano, an herbaceous and pungent cheese aged in terracotta jugs from Le Campestre, piquant salumi from Calabrian ‘nduja genius Nicola Romano, and goat cheeses from I Filadelfi in Cilento. And if you’re lucky, Salvatore will have some sheep’s cheese from Gregorio Rotolo, a farmer and cheesemaker from Abruzzo pictured below slicing his pecorini in front of Caseari Cautero.

You can buy stuff to take away, but I love sitting in the shop and ordering a plate of assorted cheeses and cured meats. Salvatore is obsessed with Champagne and you won’t find a better list in town. There are plenty of bottles from all over Italy and if you want to stay local, there’s plenty to choose from from the nearby Phlegrean Fields and interior Campania. Now go plan your next trip to Napoli!

Caseari Cautero
Piazzetta Pontecorov
Stand a/b
+39 081 1917 9449
Open Mon-Sat 9:00am-9:30pm, Sun noon-midnight

2017-10-13T16:20:54+00:00 October 13th, 2017|Categories: Food & Wine, Gastronomic Traditions, Naples & Campania, Travel|2 Comments

2 Comments

  1. orcagna October 13, 2017 at 7:44 pm - Reply

    Naples – ooooohhh! I spent two weeks there during a heatwave in November 1999, went around in my shirt all the time. Stayed on Via Mezzocannone smack in the old town center, Spaccanapoli just a turn around the corner, and had breakfast at Scaturchio every day. Ate the best food of my life. When I passed a fishmonger close to Via Toledo, I was sprayed by the vongole and other bivalves displayed in sea water in shallow round pizza pans – everything smelling just cleanly of the sea. And the smells – everything from detergents (all that laundry!) to rotting tomatoes (a lady sitting across from me was politely pointing out that there was a topone sitting under my bench next to the aquarium). The coffee comes already dosed with sugar unless you request it “amaro” – out of politeness towards the guest. The pride in their Greek heritage. Listening in on a conversation in an internet café while two young guys were talking about how places like Milan and London were great for work, but nothing compared to living in Naples – and reading about a Camorra shooting about 100 meters away from us at the same time next day in the newspapers. The Capodimonte Museum. All that art. All that stuff shut away 20 years after the 1980’s earthquake hit. Reading the newspaper in front of my favorite church, San Lorenzo Maggiore, right next to the presepe shops. Do I love that place? Have a guess!!!

    • Katie Parla October 15, 2017 at 5:43 pm - Reply

      AWESOME!!!

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