Where to Eat and Drink in Rome During the Holidays

Written by Katie Parla on December 6, 2023

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UPDATED FOR 2023/2024! There is a widely held misconception that during the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, Rome’s restaurants shut down and people who don’t have the luxury of eating at home are left to scavenge for food wherever they can get it. While one should expect some venues to be closed and many to embrace limited hours, visitors to Rome can eat very well during the holidays. It just requires a bit of planning.

Be sure to call all venues (during service hours) or book online well in advance. While the openings below have been confirmed multiple times, non si sa mai (you never know what can happen)!

To partake in the traditional Christmas Eve fish feast, head to Tempio di Iside, my favorite fish restaurant in town. They will be open for New Year’s Eve, too. Il Sanlorenzo also serves dinner Christmas Eve and the fish is super fresh but they aren’t particularly nice to visitors, just FYI.

For street food and bakeries, Antico Forno Roscioli, Pizzarium, and Panificio Bonci have some holiday opening hours and are my go-tos for carb-based provisions, especially panettone. 

In Testaccio, Piatto Romano is open New Year’s Day. Across the river, La Gensola and Antico Arco are always open December 24, 25, 31, and January 1 for lunch and dinner. . Casalino in the Ghetto is also open daily, except Shabat. Himalaya Palace is open through the holidays, except Mondays, and it is delicious.

Beer drinkers have lots to celebrate. Open Baladin is open on both Christmas and New Year’s Day. As always, Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’ in Trastevere is open daily. 

Here are the holiday schedules for some of my top spots:

Trattorie e Ristoranti

Cesare al Casaletto
Via del Casaletto 45 (Gianicolense )
(+39) 06 53 60 15
Open: Mon-Sun (12:30 pm – 3 pm & 7:30 pm – 11 pm) 
Closed: December 24, December 25, December 31, January 1
Exceptional Opening: Wednesday, December 20 

Salumeria Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari 21 (Centro Storico )
(+39) 06 68 75 287
Open: Mon-Sun (12:30-4pm & 4pm-12am)
Closed for dinner on December 24 and 31
Closed all day on December 25, 26, and January 1

Casalino Osteria Kosher
Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 1e (Centro Storico)
(+39) 06 7978 1514
Open:Sun-Thu (10am-11:30 pm); Fri (10am-4pm); Sat (9:30pm-11:30 pm)

Osteria La Gensola
Piazza della Gensola 15 (Trastevere )
(+39) 06 58 33 2758
Open: Daily lunch and dinner

Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio 7 (Gianicolo)
(+39) 06 581 5274
Open: Daily (12pm-12am)
Fixed menu on December 31

Tavernaccia Da Bruno
Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese 63  (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 58 12 792
Open: Thu-Tue (12:30-3pm & 7:30-11:30pm)
Closed: Wednesdays; December 24 to 26; December 31 for dinner; January 1 and 2  

Santo Palato
Piazza Tarquinia 4a/b (Appio-Latino)
(+39) 06 77 207354
Open: Tue-Sun (12-3 pm & 7 pm – 12 am)
Closed: December 24-27; December 31-January 2 

C’è Pasta e Pasta
Via Ettore Rolli 29 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 5832 0125
Open: Sun-Thu (8:30 am-3 pm & 6 pm-9:30 pm), Fri (8:30 am-3 pm)
Closed: Saturdays, December 25-26, January 1 

Il Sanlorenzo
Via dei Chiavari 4 (Centro)
(+39) 06 686 5097
Open: Tue-Sat (12:45-2:45pm & 7:30-12am) Mon (7:30pm-12am) 
Open for Dinner: December 24  
Open for Lunch: December 25  

Piatto Romano
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62 (Testaccio)
(+39) 06 6401 4447
Open: Mon-Sat (12:30-3pm & 7:30-12am) 
Closed: Sundays; December 24; December 25 

Al Moro
Vicolo delle Bollette 13 (Trevi)
(+39) 06 678 3495
Open: Mon-Sat (12:30 – 3:30 pm & 7:30 pm – 11:30 pm)
Closed: December 24-26, December 31st, January 1

Colline Emiliane
Via degli Avignonesi 22 (Centro)
(+39) 06 481 7538
Open: Tue-Sat (12:45-2:45pm & 7:30-10:45pm)  
Closed: Sunday; Mondays; and December 24-January 8 

Tempio di Iside
Via Pietro Verri 11 (Colosseo)
(+39) 06 700 4741
Open: Mon-Sat (12:3023:30pm) 
Closed: Sundays, December 25 (for dinner), December 26, and January 1-9
Exceptional opening: December 24, December 25 lunch only, December 31

Tram Tram
Via dei Reti 44 (San Lorenzo)
(+39) 06 490416
Open: Tue-Sun (12:30-3pm & 7:30-11pm)  
Closed: Mondays; December 24; December 25 for dinner; December 31

Osteria Bonelli
Viale dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino 172 (Tor Pignattara)
(+39) 329 863 3077
Open: Mon-Sat (12.30-2pm & 7-11pm)
Closed: Sundays
for dinner , December 24-26; December 31-January 1

Pro Loco DOL-TBD
Via Domenico Panaroli 35 (Centocelle )
(+39) 06 2430 0765
Open: Mon-Sat (10am-11pm)
Closed: Sundays, December 25-26th; January 1
Closed for dinner December 24 and 31

Romanè
Via Cipro, 106 (Trionfale)
(+39) 06 6975 6884
Open: Sun-Mon (11:30AM – 12:30PM) 
Closed: December 24 for dinner

Kiko Sushi Bar
Piazzale del Verano 90 (San Lorenzo)
(+39) 06 9484 9822
Open: Tue-Sun (1-2:30pm & 8-11pm) 
Closed: Mondays

Himalaya Palace
Circonvallazione Gianicolense, 277 (Gianicolense)
(+39) 06 582 6001
Open: Tue-Sun (12:30–3PM, 7–11:30PM) 
Closed: Mondays

Street Food, Bakeries, and Takeaway Joints

Trapizzino Trastevere
Piazza Trilussa 46 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 581 7312
Open: Tue-Sun (12pm to 1am); December 24 and 31 open until 6pm 
Closed: Mondays; December 25

Trapizzino Testaccio
Via Giovanni Branca 88 (Testaccio)
(+39) 06 4341 9624
Open: Sun-Thu (12pm-12am) Fri-Sat (12pm-1am). 
Closed: All day December 25 
Exceptional opening dates: December 24 and 31 from 12 pm to 5 pm, and January 1 from 6 pm to 12 am

Antico Forno Roscioli
Via dei Chiavari 34 (Centro Storico )
(+39) 06 68 64 045
Open: Mon-Sat (7am-7:30pm) Sun (8am-6pm); December 24 and 31 open until 6pm 
Closed: December 25-26; January 1

Pizzarium
Via della Meloria 43  (Trionfale)
(+39) 06 39 74 5416
Open: Tues-Sat (11am-10pm) Sun (12-16pm & 18-10pm)
Closed:  Mondays; December 25-26; January 1
Exceptional openings: December
24 and December 31 (11am-18pm)

Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 22 (Centro Storico)
(+39) 06 6880 6662
Open: Mon-Sat (8-2:30pm-4:307:30pm) 
Closed: Sundays; December 24-26; January 1 and 6 

Panificio Bonci
Via Trionfale 36 (Trionfale)
(+39) 06 3973 4457
Open: Mon-Fri (8:45am-3pm & 5pm-8:30pm), Sat (8am-8:30pm) 

Starting from December 10, open every day from 8:45 am to 8:30 pm, with the exception of December 24 and 31 until 6 pm.
Closed: December 25-26; January 1 

Cafés, Craft Beer Pubs and Wine Bars

Roscioli Caffè
Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16 (Centro)
(+39) 06 8916 5330
Open: Mon-Fri (7:30am-11pm), Sat (7:30am-8pm), Sun (8am-3pm); December 24 and 31 (8am-2pm) 
Closed: December 25-26; January 1

Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà (beers only)
Via di Benedetta 25 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 6456 2046
Open: Daily (11am-2am)
Closed: December 24 only from 9pm to 11pm (otherwise open) and December 31 from 9pm

Open Baladin
Via Degli Specchi 5-6 (Centro Storico )
(+39) 06 68 38 989
Open: Mon-Fri (12pm-3:30pm & 6pm-1am) Sat (12pm-2am) Sun (12pm-1am) 
Closed: December 24 at dinner, December 25 at lunch and December 31 all day

Mostò
Viale Pinturicchio 32 (Flaminio)
(+39) 392 2579616
Open: Mon-Sat (5:30pm-12am); December 24 and 31 open noon-6pm 
Closed: Sundays, December 24-26; January 1-3

Latta-TBD
Via Antonio Pacinotti, 83 (Ponte di Ferro)
(+39) 06 88923791
Open: Mon-Fri (6pm-2am); Sat (11am-2am); Sun (11am-midnight)
Closed: December 25

Circoletto
Via dei Cerchi, 55 (Circo Massimo)
(+39) 06 8377 7691
Open: Tue-Fri (6pm-midnight); Sat(6pm12:30am); Sun (13-15pm) 
Closed: Mondays; December 24-26th; December 31-January 1 

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