UPDATED FOR 2021/2022! There is a widely held misconception that during the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, Rome’s restaurants shut down and people who don’t have the luxury of eating at home are left to scavenge for food wherever they can get it. While one should expect some venues to be closed and many to embrace limited hours, visitors to Rome can eat very well during the holidays. It just requires a bit of planning.

Be sure to call all venues well in advance. While the openings below have been confirmed multiple times, non si sa mai (you never know what can happen)!

To partake in the traditional Christmas Eve fish feast, head to Tempio di Iside, my favorite fish restaurant in town. They will be open for New Year’s Eve, too.

For street food and bakeries, Antico Forno Roscioli, Pizzarium and Panificio Bonci have some holiday opening hours and are all my go-tos for carb-based provisions. 

In Testaccio, Piatto Romano is open for lunch on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and is open on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day for lunch and dinner. Across the river, La Gensola and Antico Arco are always open December 24, 25, 31, and January 1 for lunch and dinner. Tram Tram in San Lorenzo is open Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.

Il Goccetto is open until 8:30pm on Christmas Eve day and New Year’s Eve Day, it’s closed December 25 through 28 and on January 1, but during the holidays they are open on Sundays, their traditional closing dayi. Open Baladin closes around Christmas but is open for New Year’s. As always, Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’ in Trastevere is always open for beer. 

Here are the holiday schedules for some of my top spots:

Cesare al Casaletto

Via del Casaletto 45 (Gianicolense )
(+39) 06 53 60 15
Open: Thu-Tue (12:45pm-3pm & 7:45-11pm)
Closed: Wednesdays and on December 24th to 26th; December 31; January 1st; 7th.
Open on Wed. December 22nd; Wed. January 5th.

Salumeria Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari 21 (Centro Storico )
(+39) 06 68 75 287
Open: Mon-Sun (12:30-4pm & 4pm-12am)
Closed: TBD

La Gensola
Piazza della Gensola 15 (Trastevere )
(+39) 06 58 33 2758
Open: Monday-Sunday lunch and dinner
Fixed menu on December 24th and 31st

Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio 7 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 581 5274
Open: Wed-Mon (12pm-12am)
Closed: Tuesdays
Fixed menu on December 31st

Tavernaccia Da Bruno
Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese 63  (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 58 12 792
Open: Thu-Tue (12:30-3pm & 7:30-11:30pm)
Closed: Wednesdays and on December 24 to 26; December 31; January 1st.
Open on Wed. December 29th

Santo Palato
Piazza Tarquinia 4a/b (Appio-Latino)
(+39) 06 77 207354
Open: Mon-Fri (12:30-3:30pm & 7:30-10:30pm) Sat-Sun (1-3:30pm & 7:30-10:30pm)
Closed: December 24th to 27th; January 1st to 3rd
On December 31st the restaurant will host an event with music and tastings from 12pm to 7pm; no
reservation needed

C’è Pasta e Pasta
Via Ettore Rolli 29 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 5832 0125
Open: Sun-Thu (8:30am-3pm & 5-8:30pm) Fri (8:30am-3pm)
Closed: Friday evenings, Saturdays. December 25th, 26th and 31st; January 1st and 2nd. Closed
for dinner on December 24h

Il Sanlorenzo

Via dei Chiavari 4 (Centro)
(+39) 06 686 5097
Open: Tue-Sat (12:45-2:45pm & 7:30-11pm) Mon (7:30-11pm)
Open for Dinner: December 24th and 31st
Open for Lunch: December 25th and January 1st
Closed: December 26th; 27th January 2nd; 3rd

Piatto Romano
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62 (Testaccio)
(+39) 06 6401 4447
Open: Mon-Sat (12:30-3pm & 7:30-11:30pm)
Closed: Sunday; closed for dinner on December 24th and 25th

Al Moro
Vicolo delle Bollette 13 (Trevi)
(+39) 06 678 3495
Open: Mon-Sun (12:30-3:30pm & 7:30-11:30pm)
Closed: December 25th, 26th and 31st; January 1st and 2nd. Closed for dinner on December 24h

Colline Emiliane
Via degli Avignonesi 22 (Centro)
(+39) 06 481 7538
Open: Tue-Sat (12:45-2:45pm & 7:30-10:45pm) Sun (12:45-2:45pm)
Closed: Sunday evenings; Mondays and December 24th – January 6th

Tempio di Iside
Via Pietro Verri 11 (Colosseo)
(+39) 06 700 4741
Open: Mon-Sat (12-3pm & 7:30-11pm)
Closed: Sundays, December 25th; 26th. January 1st to 9th

Tram Tram
Via dei Reti 44 (San Lorenzo)
(+39) 06 490416
Open: Tue-Sat (12:30-3pm & 7:30-11pm) Sun (7:30-11pm)
Closed: Mondays
Fixed menu on December 24th and 31st

Via Giovanni da Empoli, 27 (Ostiense)
(+39) 06 8772 5679
Open: Wed-Sun (9am-3:30pm)
Closed: Mondays,Tuesdays

Osteria Bonelli
Viale dell'Acquedotto Alessandrino 172 (Tor Pignattara)
(+39) 329 863 3077
Open: Mon-Sat (1-2:30pm & 8-11pm)
Closed: Sundays, December 24th to 27th; December 31st to January 2nd

Pro Loco DOL
Via Domenico Panaroli 35 (Centocelle )
(+39) 06 2430 0765
Open: Mon-Sat (10am-11pm)
Closed: Sundays, December 25th and 26th; January 1st.
Closed for dinner on December 24th

Kiko Sushi Bar
Piazzale del Verano 90 (San Lorenzo)
(+39) 06 9484 9822
Open: Tue-Sun (1-2:30pm & 8-11pm)
Closed: Monday, December 25th to 27th; January 1st to 3rd
Closed for dinner on December 24th

180g Pizzeria Romana
Via Tor de’ Schiavi 53 (Centocelle)
(+39) 06 6932 4986
Open: Wed-Mon (7:30-11:30pm)
Closed: Tuesdays

Street Food, Bakeries, and Takeaway Joints

Trapizzino Trastevere
Piazza Trilussa 46 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 581 7312
Open: Every day (12pm to 1am, but might be closed at lunch through August: 24/07 TBA)
Closed: TBD

Trapizzino Testaccio
Via Giovanni Branca 88 (Testaccio)
(+39) 06 4341 9624
Open: Sun-Thu (12pm-12am) Fri-Sat (12pm-1am).
Closed: TBD

Antico Forno Roscioli
Via dei Chiavari 34 (Centro Storico )
(+39) 06 68 64 045
Open: Mon-Sat (7am-8pm) Sun (8:30am-7pm)
Closed: TBD

Via della Meloria 43  (Trionfale)
(+39) 06 39 74 5416
Open: Mon-Sun (11am-3pm & 5pm-10pm) Fri-Sat (11am-10pm)
Closed: December 25th; 26th and January 1st

Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 22 (Centro)
(+39) 06 6880 6662
Open: Mon-Sat (7:30-2:30pm-4:45-8pm)
Closed: Sundays, December 25th; 26th and January 1st

Panificio Bonci
Via Trionfale 36 (Trionfale)
(+39) 06 3973 4457
Open: Mon-Thu (8:30am-3pm & 5-8:30pm) Fri-Sat (8:30am-8:30pm)
Open on Sundays (8:30am-8:30pm) through out the month of December 2022
Closed: December 25th; 26th January 1st; 2nd

Cafés, Craft Beer Pubs and Wine Bars

Roscioli Caffè
Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16 (Centro)
(+39) 06 8916 5330
Open: Mon-Fri (7:00am-6:30pm) Sat (7:30am-6:30pm) Sun (8am-6:30pm)
Closed: TBD

Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà (beers only)
Via di Benedetta 25 (Trastevere)
(+39) 06 6456 2046
Open: Everyday (11am-2am)
Closed: Never

Open Baladin
Via Degli Specchi 5-6 (Centro Storico )
(+39) 06 68 38 989
Open: Mon-Fri (12pm-3:30pm & 6pm-1am) Sat (12pm-2am) Sun (12pm-1am)
Closed: December 24th; 25th

Viale Pinturicchio 32 (Flaminio)
(+39) 392 2579616
Open: Mon-Sat (5:30pm-12am)
Closed: Sundays, December 25th; 26th; January 1st and 2nd
On December 24th and 31st open 11am-6pm

Osteria di Birra del Borgo
Via Silla 26/a (Prati)
(+39) 06 8376 2316
Open: Tue-Fri (5:30pm – 2am) Sat-Sun (12pm-2am)
Closed: Mondays, December 25th; 26th and January 1st
Closed for dinner on December 24th; 31st