rome_snow_winter

UPDATED FOR 2018/2019! There is a widely held misconception that during the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, Rome’s restaurants shut down and people who don’t have the luxury of eating at home are left to scavenge for food wherever they can get it. While one should expect some venues to be closed and many to embrace limited hours, visitors to Rome can eat very well during the holidays. It just requires a bit of planning.

Be sure to call all venues well in advance. While the openings below have been confirmed multiple times, non si sa mai (you never know what can happen)!

To partake in the traditional Christmas Eve fish feast, head to elegant Il Sanlorenzo or Tempio di Iside, my favorite places in central Rome to find fresh, local and relatively sustainable fish. Il Sanlorenzo is open at lunch and dinner on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve but it will be closed on Christmas day, Dec 26th and New Year’s day. Tempio di Iside, another of my favorite places for fish, will be open for lunch only on Christmas Eve and for lunch and dinner on Christmas day, Dec 26th and New Year’s Eve.

Roscioli will be open for lunch only on Christmas Eve and on New Year’s Eve. From December until January 6, Roscioli will be open Sundays, their traditional closing day.

For street food and bakeries, Antico Forno Roscioli, Pizzarium, Panificio Bonci and Supplizio are all open on December 24 and 31, but they’ll be closing earlier than the usual (between 4pm and 6pm).

In Testaccio, La Torricella is open on Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. Piatto Romano is open Christmas Eve at lunch, Christmas at lunch and dinner. They are also open for lunch and dinner on  New Year’s Eve and Day. Taverna Volpetti is open at lunch only on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. Across the river in southern Trastevere, the extremely awesome Tavernaccia Da Bruno is open on Christmas Day but they are almost fully booked. Also in Trastevere, La Gensola is open for lunch and dinner Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day. Up the Janiculum Hill, Antico Arco is also open for lunch and dinner Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day.  In the San Giovanni/Appio-Latino district, Santo Palato is open for dinner on New Year’s eve with a fixed menu. Tram Tram in San Lorenzo is open for lunch and dinner Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day.

For international cuisine, try Mesob, which will be open throughout the holidays upon request. Fine dining lovers should check out Pipero, which is open for dinner on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve, for lunch on Christmas Day and for lunch and dinner on New Year’s Day. It is also worth noting that many Kosher restaurants in the Ghetto will be open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Nonna Betta is the best of the lot. It is open on New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day, too.

Il Goccetto is open until 8:30pm on Christmas Eve day and New Year’s Eve Day but will be closed on December 25-26 and January 1. Open Baladin will be open throughout the holidays on a limited schedule: noon to 6:00pm Christmas Eve, 6:00pm to 2:00am Christmas Day, noon to 6:30pm on New Year’s Eve and noon until 2:00am on New Year’s Day. Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’ in Trastevere is open 11:00am to 3:00pm on Christmas Eve and 4:00pm until 2:00am on Christmas. Meanwhile Birra Piu’ in Pigneto is open 5:00-8:00pm on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve and from 6:00pm to late on Christmas Day. Osteria di Birra del Borgo is closed Christmas Day, but it will be open on December 24 and 31 until 4pm.

A heads up to Cesare al Casaletto fans, the trattoria is open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, but will be closed December 26-January 9.