There’s this extraordinary slice of Rome wedged between the Stazione Trastevere, the Tiber, and McDonalds. If you can overlook the aromas emitted by the latter landmarks, this swath of Trastevere’s deep south is almost perfect. In addition to its pretty, pastel-hued 1920s housing blocks and views of Monte Testaccio and Gazometro, it is home to some seriously delicious food. For natural wines and Roman specialties with some Umbrian and Sardinian dishes woven into the menu, there’s Tavernaccia Da Bruno. Around the corner, Pizzeria L’Elementare and the second location of craft beer pub Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà. Just a block away, a small kosher tavola calda (cafeteria) called C’è Pasta…e Pasta serves Roman Jewish classics.
As the name implies (C’è Pasta…e Pasta! means: there’s pasta…and pasta), the place serves mostly pasta. They also sell packages of dairy and parve kosher pastas made in-house; meat-filled pastas are brought in from an off-site kosher kitchen and sold for take-away only. When I’m eating there, though, I usually skip the carbs and go straight for my favorite Roman Jewish specialties like concia (fried zucchini marinated with garlic and herbs), deeply roasted caramelized vegetables, marinated fish, and aliciotti con indivia (a casserole of anchovies layered with curly endive). In the summer, I’ll grab some stuffed tomatoes to eat in or take away. They serve carciofi alla giudia in season (winter to very early spring).
Portions are generous, prices are moderate, and the clientele is local, all of which set C’è Pasta…e Pasta apart from most of its kosher counterparts in the Ghetto,* so check it out for a crash course in local Jewish dishes. C’è Pasta…e Pasta is located at Via Ettore Rolli 29, a short walk from Stazione Trastevere and Testaccio. Open: Mon-Thurs 8:30am-3:00pm, 5:00-9:30pm; Fri 8:30am-3:00pm; Sun 8:30am-3:00pm, 6:00-9:30pm. Closed Shabbat and Jewish holidays.
*Rome’s historic Jewish quarter is mostly overrun with terrible traps. If you want to eat kosher in the Ghetto, I recommend Boccione (cookies and cakes), Bona (pizza by the slice), and Casalino (a restaurant). You can even get away with starters at Nonna Betta but many of the other dishes are hit or miss. The other places are disasters.
