/Da Artenio in Rome’s Testaccio Market

Da Artenio in Rome’s Testaccio Market

Artenio Testaccio

If you’re curious how, in spite of intense daily exercise, I keep my BMI right around (emphasis on “round”) 26, it’s simple: I eat pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner. My source for the most important meal of the day? That depends. Some mornings I find myself in the centro storico where countless Romans scarf down barely edible cornetti chased with burnt espresso* at the city’s central bars. I hightail it, instead, to Antico Forno Roscioli or Forno Campo de’ Fiori.


Just as often, I’m in Testaccio where I snag a drinkable (but not excessively so) caffè doppio at Linari or Zì Elena, followed by a pizzetta or 3 at Da Artenio, a stall in the Testaccio Market. While much of what Artenio sells is made elsewhere–the excellent sourdough breads come from wood-fired ovens in nearby Genzano, while the wonderful selection of biodynamic wines come from all over Italy–the irregularly-shaped pizzette rosse are baked in batches throughout the morning. Artenio stretches the dough into rough oval shapes, then tops with a brushing of tangy San Marzano tomato puree. The baked final product is chewy, with slightly crispy edges, with a touch of bright tomato sauce. There are also pizzette topped with sliced potatoes (Rome is a bastion of carb-on-carb foods, 50% of the reason I live here), and lingue (aka fruste, whips), foot-long ropes of dough studded with green olives, then baked. Owing to the Testaccio Market’s lively lunch culture, there are also assorted prepared foods like baked vegetable casseroles, as well as the occasional porchetta.

Visit Artenio for pizzette and more Monday to Saturday from 7:30am (ish) to 1:30 or 2:00. He’s at Box #90 near the fishmongers and the southwestern corner of the market. For the low-down on where I eat pizza at lunch and dinner, check out this guide from AFAR.

*expect some serious anti-Roman espresso commentary until half-decent, non-charred espresso surfaces somewhere in town

2017-02-17T15:15:15+00:00 September 19th, 2015|Categories: Food & Wine, Markets, Restaurants in Rome, Rome & Lazio, Rome on a Budget|Tags: |7 Comments


  1. chris September 21, 2015 at 9:16 pm - Reply

    Why exactly IS the coffee in Rome so awful? The coffee in Naples was a revelation after the sad espressos I’ve had in Rome.

    • Katie September 22, 2015 at 12:40 am - Reply

      because the beans are improperly roasted and machines are filthy… for starters:)

  2. Laurel Barton September 26, 2015 at 1:48 pm - Reply

    We are in Switzerland right now and missing Roman coffee. Whether you think Roman espresso is good or not, it is still better than the world outside of Italy, for the most part.

    • Katie September 26, 2015 at 3:30 pm - Reply

      depends, but point taken:)

  3. Bob israel October 11, 2015 at 4:42 pm - Reply

    Katie, a little late, but many thanks! We spent several days in Rome then Umbria in early September and our time in Rome was greatly benefited by following your food guidance. First the only bad coffee we had was “American” at hotel…everything else fabulous. Continued search for best granita great fun and no closer to answer. Pianostrada simply one of the very finest food and life experiences we’ve ever had! Twice! Roscioli an excellent experience as well plus many others. Key is to keep it simple. Thanks so much!

  4. […] will sell seafood salads, and the produce vendors will serve vegetarian dishes and macedonie. Artenio told me he’s getting a big old barrel of wine to serve by the glass with pumpkin lasagna. I […]

  5. […] at the latter (Forno Roscioli’s pizzas are heavy IMO). For tasty little pizzette, visit Da Artenio in the Mercato di Testaccio. And for a round-up of these and other favorite places for pizza in […]

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