Whenever I see a huge slab of guanciale, the cured jowl of a pig used in classic Roman pasta dishes, I always wonder to myself, “How could something that size come from a pig’s face?” I guess I don’t see pigs half as often as I think about eating them and I must forget what beasts they are. When they are full grown, most breeds are just absolutely huge. This weekend I happened upon some pigs in Mudchute Farm, a 32-acre park near Canary Wharf in London. One had particularly developed mandibles and I couldn’t help asking myself another question, “Does this pig know how sad it is that he will never become part of un bel piato d’amatriciana?”