Made it nice around the tree? Check. Wrapped the presents? Check. Put on elastic waistband pants? Check. The only thing left to do this fine Christmas Eve day is to finish preparing our feast of seven fishes. While my family is of Sicilian origin, most of what we prepare would never be found on a table in Palermo or Catania. Our holiday traditions are instead part of a culinary evolution that draws on traditional recipes where possible, and incorporates new ones depending on the availability of ingredients. Tonight we will be dining on jumbo shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, marinated anchovies, calamari salad, and baked trout, just to name a few of the seven fish dishes.