In Williamsburg, Isa’s Wine List Delights

Written by Katie Parla on May 21, 2012

Last night Şemsa and I hopped the L to Williamsburg and strolled through hipster junction to Isa, a not-yet-year-old restaurant on the corner of Wythe Avenue and S 2nd Street. The dinner was insanely brilliant with one exciting and interesting dish after another (except for the duck breast main, which, seemed mainstream and boring under the circumstances). I was kind of expecting to be blown away by the meal and I completely was. But what I wasn’t prepared for was such spectacular wine.

The last page of the (brief) wine list had a selection of French and Italian rosés. I was intrigued by the first on the list, a natural wine from Thourace (near Anjou), which had a hefty paragraph devoted to its complexity and characteristics. I wanted to know more about it, but the GM had left and none of the servers were equipped to elaborate. So we ordered a bottle and were knocked out by this complicated, fruity, spiced, herbal, dark rosé.

Rosé d’un Jour is the “fantasy name” of La Ferme de la Sansonnière’s Vin de France (it isn’t registered in the AC Rosé d’Anjou appellation) rosé made from 100% grolleau grapes. The vineyard, which is located in a sub-region of Loire, is owned by Mark and Christine Angeli. Their bush-trained grapes are cultivated using biodynamic methods and they are among the few cultivators in the world of the indigenous grolleau grape–a rarity even in the region where Chenin Blanc reigns.

Rosé d’un jour was pleasantly sweet and ever so subtly effervescent at the start. The wine’s cranberry color foreshadowed its red fruit aromas, which were joined by nettle and licorice. The wine was a perfect pairing with many dishes, about which I will elaborate in a future post. For more on Isa’s wine list, check out Talia Baiocchi’s post on Eater here.

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