Pizza on the street in Naples can be very good, occasionally bad and, at times, it can be downright the best thing you have ever eaten. The historical center is teeming with tiny pizzerie and friggitorie (fry shops selling pizzas, fried dough, fried rice balls, etc) of varying quality. Although there are a few places that display sad defrosted microwave pizzas in their glass cases to pawn off to unsuspecting tourists, the majority of Naples’ street food is delectable.
Di Matteo is the example par excellence of a classic pizzeria/friggitoria. Located on Via dei Tribunali in the heart of the city’s historical center, this place offers table service inside but most of its business is conducted on the street, as clients exchange a few euros for folded up personal pizzas and fried treats. You can even watch as the pizzaiolo moves pizzas around in the wood burning oven, removing them with a wooden paddle and easing them onto huge plates or into the display case facing the street.
In the end, your best bet is to observe the locals. Neapolitans are serious about pizza and don’t squander precious calories on junk. When there is a crowd gathered around the storefront, this is a sign that pizzas and fried treats that are being served up are top notch.
Via dei Tribunali 94
Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat