/The Esquiline Hill for Gastronomic Travelers

The Esquiline Hill for Gastronomic Travelers

Tozzetti at Pietro Roscioli.

Rome’s Esquiline Hill may not be packed with tourist attractions, but it has plenty to hold the gastronomic traveler. (more on The Atlantic…)

2016-01-09T13:34:15+00:00 January 7th, 2011|Categories: Food & Wine, Gastronomic Traditions, Restaurants, Rome & Lazio|5 Comments


  1. Larry January 7, 2011 at 1:19 pm - Reply

    Great post. We lived in the neighborhood for a year and a half on Via Merulana (recently relocating to Paris), and spent quite a bit of time in most of the places you mentioned.

    I actually never tried the beer at Da Danilo…they have a very good wine list (and Danilo and the waiter Mario are very knowledgeable). In addition to their Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe (which are very good), I’d highly recommend the stozzapretti (with the sauce changing with the season). And if the puntarelle is in season, they do a great version.

    A couple other places in the neighborhood I’d suggest:

    ** La Cuccuma (Via Merulana 221) has good pizza al taglio, and their pizze tonde (obviously available only at night) I think rivals some of the best in Rome.

    ** Da Nino across the street does the cucina Romana classics quite well, particularly cacio e pepe and amatriciana.

    ** Hostaria del Buongustaio around the corner on Via Buonarroti is an interesting case. The place is never full and doesn’t have a lot of apparent charm, though the owner is very friendly (I believe he was a chef somewhere else in his younger days). Some of the dishes are underwhelming. Others, though, are really very good. His cacio e pepe (which he’s very proud of) is terrific. And, I can’t pass up his cozze (mussels) if he has them, in a tomato broth with ample red pepper. His roasted potatoes are really good (a seemingly simple thing that many restaurants get wrong).

  2. Renato January 7, 2011 at 3:20 pm - Reply

    Dear Katie,
    could please suggest me the best chinese in Rome?

    • Katie January 12, 2011 at 7:06 am - Reply

      I haven’t tried every Chinese in town, but I’ve been to all of them in the center and Hua Qiao is the best of the lot.

  3. Renato January 12, 2011 at 12:12 pm - Reply

    Thanks 🙂

  4. Katie January 19, 2011 at 1:36 pm - Reply

    @Larry thanks for the additional recs! I walk past those places all the time and still have yet to try any of them!

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