On Tuesday night I had one of the best pizza margheritas of my life. This is a weighty statement, as when I am in Rome, I eat at least three per week at the city’s best pizzerias. The pizza margherita at Da Remo in Testaccio has the classic Roman crust: paper thin and at the same time flimsy and crispy so it bends into a perfect crunchy cheese envelope for my enjoyment.