
UPDATE: THE TESTACCIO MARKET HAS CLOSED AND MOVED TO A NEW VENUE. Earlier this week, a curious reader asked the questions, “Where can one find tripe and head cheese when in Rome? Preferably followed by limoncello?” The answer is simple: the Testaccio market. Just yesterday as I was strolling through, I saw one of the butchers preparing a pig’s head for the head cheese process. In Italy the final product is called coppa di testa. Also on sale at his stall were strips of tripe and just 50 feet away at the alimentari, a bottle of limoncello was collecting dust on a shelf.