/Organic Shopping in Rome

Organic Shopping in Rome

For all the hype Campo de’ Fiori gets, you’d be hard pressed to find a single farmer selling his wares there. Even in the Testaccio Market, which is exponentially more pleasant than Campo, there is only one stall selling farm direct produce. With so little direct contact between producer and consumer, farmer’s markets are a welcome addition to Rome’s food scene.

Back in September 2007, La Citta’ dell’Altra Economia (Largo Dino Frisullo; 39-06-5730-0419), a 3500 square meter organic market complete with a café, conference center, and exhibition spaces, opened in the old slaughterhouse in Testaccio. The wide open spaces and retired corrals on the property host a farmer’s markets every third Sunday of the month. For details, visit the market’s website here.

A short distance away by the Circus Maximus, the Mercato di Campagna Amica (Via San Teodoro, 74; 39-06-4899-3204) is set inside the old Jewish fish market building. Every Saturday and Sunday until June 27, consumers have the rare opportunity to purchase fresh produce, dairy products, cured meats, honey, olive oils, and legumes directly from small producers.

2016-01-07T03:39:41+00:00 May 4th, 2010|Categories: Culture, Food & Wine, Gastronomic Traditions, Rome & Lazio|13 Comments


  1. Jordan May 4, 2010 at 8:11 pm - Reply

    Hey hey — I can never figure out which market stand is run by an actual farmer. Is it the one that’s always closed 4 hours before everyone else, with the smoking dude? In the corner near Palombi?

  2. Elizabeth May 4, 2010 at 8:27 pm - Reply

    The Mercato di Campagna Amica is a wonderful effort to connect to farmers. Unfortunately none of them are organic. (or at least the last time I went, about two months ago). Did something change?

  3. Katie May 4, 2010 at 8:15 pm - Reply

    yup its the one with the smoking dude. its in the the NE corner of the market. near-ish to the lady with all that pugliese cheese and the porchetta dude. the opening hours very “irregular”

  4. Hande May 5, 2010 at 9:29 am - Reply

    The mercato Trionfale on Andrea Doria consists almost 50% of farmers directly selling their wares….

  5. Katie May 5, 2010 at 11:10 am - Reply

    @Elizabeth, you bring up an interesting point. It is true that most of the producers at the Mercato del Circo Massimo have not been certified organic by the EU. However, many of the farms that are present at Campagna Amica markets are very small with really limited distribution and have not sought the official certification. As I see it, if their methods follow the rules of organic production, I consider them organic (and can’t blame them for avoiding the certification bureaucracy!). You can get “self-certified” organic products at the Lazio a Tavola, mozzarella di bufala from the Amaseno booth, and cheese and cured meats from L’Allegra Pastorella.

    @Hande I’m shocked! Is this a change from the old school market?

  6. Hande May 5, 2010 at 1:50 pm - Reply

    ah, I forgot the 100% organic (sometimes self-declared, as you have explained, which is fine with me) market at Vicolo Morretta (where Banchi Vecchi, Monserrato and Giulia come together) every 2nd and 4th Sunday morning. Go to the cheese guy with the funny hat, he has great ricotta scorza nera, butter, yogurt, etc.

    Re: Trionfale, I first got to know this market as it was out on the street (the building was being, well, built) and the northern part of the street were the agricoltori themselves (I think the ass. is called Albo) from Lazio, southern part the normal. Now inside the building, the stands that are close to the fish side (away from the main entrance on Andrea Doria) are the producers. But there are also some organic sellers in the part where it is not farm to market. The direct sellers are color coded, though at the moment it eludes me which color.

  7. Jordan May 5, 2010 at 12:53 pm - Reply

    There’s also the “Roma farmer’s market” every Saturday and Sunday, technically in the same complex as the altra’economia, but its entrance is over by the bridge/tiber side. It’s open till something like 8pm every Saturday, until 2 on Sundays. Seems like there are actual farmers there too.

  8. Ellen May 5, 2010 at 3:33 pm - Reply

    oh yeah, i became very familiar with these markets! is the weekend farmer’s market in the slaughter houses still there? the one you enter by ponte testaccio. it is near the citta, but separate. i loved that place and would go wandering the city on foot most weekends, only to always find myself there! i would inevitably buy too much stuff and have to lug it all back to the campo dei fiori.

    anyway, i hope it is still around. i know some of the farmers expressed concern about its longevity.

  9. Katie May 15, 2010 at 3:12 pm - Reply

    yes! the weekend farmer’s market is every weekend (sat 9-20, sun 9-14). see more info (in Italian) here.

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