/In Rome, Straddling Seasons

In Rome, Straddling Seasons

After seven months of apocalyptic miserable weather, including an insanely cold and rainy spring, it seems summer is finally on its way. I don’t want to jinx it, but I think the infernal temperatures these past few days are a sign that the notoriously hot Roman summer has arrived.

At the market, however, we are still straddling seasons. Expect to find both spring and summer produce at your local produce vendor. This morning I hit up my fruttivendolo in the Celio and he had spring’s bounty: cherries, asparagus, lettuce, strawberries, and all sorts of apples. The early summer fruits were there as well: watermelon, cantaloupe, peaches, plums, eggplants. And of course there were the fruits and vegetables that span both seasons like pears, chard, lettuce, carrots, potatoes, green beans.

For great produce in Rome, give Campo de’ Fiori a pass. Yes, it is famous and yes, you can find quality stuff there. But you’ll also find higher prices and an abundance of out of season produce. I recommend visiting one of the city’s other large produce markets. You can find them in Testaccio, Monteverde Nuovo (Piazza San Giovanni di Dio), Esquilino/Termini (the Piazza Vittorio Market aka Nuovo Mercato Esquilino is located just northeast of Piazza Vittorio), Vaticano/Prati (Mercato Trionfale is located off Via Andrea Doria).

For more on buying and trying local produce in Rome, consult these links:

In Rome, Really Local Food

Rome’s Dining Trend Highlights Products of Lazio

Rome Sustainable Food Project Thrives

Farmer’s Market at the Circus Maximus

Organic Shopping in Rome

2016-01-17T14:52:45+00:00 June 9th, 2010|Categories: Culture, Food & Wine, Gastronomic Traditions, Rome & Lazio|4 Comments


  1. Mamma Parla June 9, 2010 at 6:55 pm - Reply

    We are experiencing the same in our local farmer’s market – the selection and the variety of products are fewer than usual for this time of year. I hope this means a longer growing season for the remainder of the summer crops!

  2. nyc/caribbean ragazza June 10, 2010 at 6:20 am - Reply

    I was in Trinofale on Tuesday. Mamma mia the fruit was exploding out of the stalls. I was a little overwhelmed.

    I agree with you regarding Campo. I only go there if I need one thing very quickly, like an onion, that I forgot to buy and I’m in the middle of cooking. It’s right around the corner but none of my neighbors shop there.

  3. Kathleen August 26, 2010 at 9:34 pm - Reply

    Have some friends heading to Rome in October and want them to pick up a big bag of Campo de Fiori spice mix at the market of the same name. Can’t remember the vendor who makes this mix. The spices are all in buckets, and plastic bags. Any ideas? Thanks!

    • Katie August 28, 2010 at 3:55 pm - Reply

      There is a stall right behind Giordano Bruno’s statue that sells spices in buckets. There may be more than one, but I’m not sure. Sorry!

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